ZIMBABWE WILL COME BACK STRONG

By Onesmo Jacob

I was a bit sleepy as Sean negotiated the road from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to Zimbabwe.
Kim was the navigator. I can't remember the sunrise but remember loosing a few minutes because the traffic Policeman pulling us off and lost a few minutes then carried on.

We stopped at Chalinze in Tanzania which is about one hundred km from Dar es Salaam to buy fruits and coconuts; we bought some cashew nuts as well. These snacks ended up lasting us the whole way to Zimbabwe even after offering some to children on the way.

The fuel price in the Fuel Stations was fluctuating as we drove. Sean and Kim kept a record of fuel consumptions, kilometres and fuel prices, which was interesting to compare. We refueled twice to get to Iringa and we stayed one night south west of Tanzania in a place called Farmhouse where we had the biggest T-bone steak I have ever had, even Kim being a specialist of kitchen was surprised. The night went so quickly and the morning came with a much cooler temperature, as we were over one thousand meters high.

Next day started with lots of joy as our car would not start so we had to push start it to get it going, which was a good way to wake up. After two days of traveling through Tanzania we reached the Malawi border, which showed how big a country Tanzania is.
When we arrived in Malawi we noticed how different this eco-system varies between the two countries, from the people and culture to the wildlife. Everything needed money and the currency started changing from Tanzanian Shillings to the Malawian Quacha. This was my first time to see the Malawian Quacha and it was difficult for me to work it out and understand it because the Quacha is not worth very much compared to the Shilling. After a few hours reached the western side of Lake Nyasa (Malawi) and spent two nights along the lake were I became mature!!!!
Sean and Kim made it rather special, I can't remember the type of champagne as I had no idea there was one.
This was after a long and very exciting day at Livingstonia in Malawi where Sean and Kim bought me a Birthday present; it was wrapped in a very old Malawian newspaper and entwined with green long grasses from around the camp. The present in it is the best ever from Malawi but the fact that it was in old newspaper to me means old age comes with old stuff. Thanks Sean and Kim for reminding me that. I am old now.
We had a good day in Livingstonia where we learnt a lot of history of the area. Doctor Livingston and other European explorers set up here during the exploration time as they headed down south of Africa. We visited the Musuem where we actually learnt a lot of information and saw all the old hospital equipment that was used in those days. We also visited the Livingstonia Church, which had beautiful paintings of Livingston. We also saw the Livingstonia University.

After a special stop off party for my birthday and to see Livingstonia, we continued our journey through to Lilongwe and then crossed into Zambia where we stayed a night at Bridges Camp on the Kafue River. I got in to trouble because I tried to take a photo of the Bridge, which I should of asked about first. It was too short there and difficult to judge the place but the nature and people I met, drove me into a different world. Our night went through like a shooting star.

We drove through Zambia to Zimbabwe and we entered Zimbabwe through Kariba. The Customs officers were very helpful and Sean sorted out all the paperwork, which took about an hour.

Next day I walked around Kariba to see the people and the environment, which I found fascinating. Life is very much like Tanzanian life but people don't have enough money in Zimbabwe and it is very difficult to live a normal life for most Zimbabweans. I found the people who sell curios and anyone who works in the Tourism Industry have all been highly affected by the financial situation in the country as the Tourism has dropped about 90% over the last 10 years.
The people were very friendly and you could see from their faces that they had been through a lot of turmoil over the last few years. We went into the market and all the people were relieved to have Sudza (Sembe), cooking oil and bread back. There is no more Zimbabwean Dollar and the country is now running in US$'s and Rand. This is difficult because there is not much US$ in cycle.
Saying all of this everyone I spoke to still believes that the Zimbabwean will come back healthier than ever before.

In Kariba, there were very few white Zimbabweans around and the only ones I saw worked in the Tourism Industry. When I spoke to them about the crisis, I noticed that they did not have much hope for situation and most of them are looking for a way of getting out of the country. They claimed that safety is a problem and they have to be extra careful when driving around and at home and most of their friends have left the country, which leaves them feeling really lonely and unsafe.

After staying for a night in Kariba we drove 5 hours to Harare where we stayed for a few days.
On the way to Harare we saw huge empty fields. Some of them had broken fences and knocked down gates. These were obviously farms, which had been taken over by Government orders. On the sides of the roads there were quite a few unemployed people who used to work in the farms and in other sectors.

We spent 2 days in Harare where I met Sean and Kim's parents and other family. We all had a good time together.

After my stay in Harare Sean's parents took me to Marondera where they live for one night, which is about an hour away from Harare.
In Marondera I met two guys who work in the Zimbabwean Army who I found really interesting to talk to. There life seems to be fine and they have money to live a normal life.

From there Sean's Dad organized transport for me to Imire Game Ranch, which is just outside Marondera.
I stayed here for four days and it is an interesting place to get to know animal behavior and to work with them. I walked with Elephants, which was an incredible experience, and I noticed that Elephants there are much bigger and have much thicker tusks than the East African Elephants. At Imire there were about 5 Elephants and one of them had completely isolated herself from the others and had joined up with a herd of Buffalos. She acts like she is the boss of the herd and bullies them around. There is one staff who looks after all of these animals who I spent a day with walking around with these Elephants and Buffalos. It was very special for me to see the way animals change if they are trained.
There are also about 5 Rhinos at Imire who are always followed by Armed Rangers to protect them from Poaching. A few years ago one Rhino was poached from the Farm and since then they have been extra careful which also means they need a lot of time and money. I had an opportunity to work with these guys for a day following Rhinos, which was my first time to get close to Black Rhinos. This farm was nearly lost with all the others during the political situation but was saved for the protection of Black Rhino.

I also did a lot of birding and walking and really enjoyed my time at Imire and learning and experiencing the way they guide which is a completely different market to Beho Beho but with very interesting aspects.
On the farm there were fascinating Rock Paintings which I was taught about by one of their local Guides.
An interesting strategy, which they use on the farm to minimize the numbers of Ticks on the Wildlife, is to bring Cattle in to pick up the ticks and then to be treated. Cattle can be treated for Ticks, which is difficult and un-natural to do to any wild animals.

From there I went back to Harare, and Sean and Kim had organized all the kit for camping.
We left the following morning for Hwange National Park, which was a long day and about a 10 hour drive. Even though it was very long I was very excited to see the beautiful landscape and to hear all the interesting information and stories about history, culture and wildlife that I heard from Sean's family.

We went via Bulawayo to Hwange and spent four days in the National Park and stayed at the Hwange Main Camp, which is the head quarters for the Parks. We saw a lot there and the landscape varies vastly from grasslands to Teak and Mopane Woodlands and is very different to most of Tanzania. I saw my first Sable and Roan antelope in the park, which we had been searching for since arriving. They are both very striking animals.
I saw a lot of new birds and few new trees including Camel Thorn Acacia, False Mopane and Teak Trees.
The Main Camp lodges are kept beautifully and very clean but I noticed were very empty and they have had to close the main restaurant and bar called the "The Waterbuck's Head".
We also visited Hwange Safari Lodge, which is a four-star Hotel close to the Park but was completely empty.
Hwange Town is very well known for it's Coal Mines and the old Railway Line runs straight through the National Park.

After Hwange we went to Victoria Falls and it was different to all other places in Zim. Is a bit like Arusha but smaller, and the loud sound of the Falls makes it different to anywhere else I have ever been. When I saw the Falls for the first time I was so emotional and speechless because the sight of them was so breathtaking.
The volume of the water is the highest it has been in the last 10 years. The highest they reckon it had been in the past is 4700 cubic per second and can drop down to 400 cubic per second during an extended draught.
The local name for Victoria Falls is "Mosi a Tunya" which means "The Smoke that Thunders" because of the noise that the makes when it falls and the mist that rises.

I Bungee Jumped off the Vic Falls Bridge which is 111m high, the second highest in the world.
I had always dreamed of doing that even though I was very shaky a few seconds before.
We also did a Sunset Cruise on the Upper Zambezi where we gathered quite a few birds and in the end it was so busy with boats because everyone wanted to get a picture of the sunset over the water.
We saw Crocodiles and Hippos and I met and socialized with a lot of other Nationalities, which I loved.
Sean thanks for letting me go and study the really local Zimbabweans. I really enjoyed myself in Vic Falls and hopefully will be able to go back soon.
After Vic Falls we went back to Bulawayo and I stayed with Spike and Rita for few days.
They took me to see the Taxidermies and I learnt how to treat skins and the materials they use to stuff them before transporting them abroad. At the moment they are doing a lot of Zebra Skins because of the World Cup Football as a lot of Tourists will want to buy them.
We also went to Matopos. I really enjoyed learning about the history of the people in that area which includes Cecil John Rhodes who came to Africa for health reasons joining his brother Herbert in Natal, South Africa.
We went to the Bulawayo Natural History Museum, which was the best one I have ever been to.
I was so happy to meet Spike and Rita again and we had good time.

I then met up with Sean and Kim again and we drove back to Harare. Sacha and Tam were there and because it was supposed to be my last night they took me to their house where I stayed the night.
The next morning Sean and Kim picked me up to go to the airport and after I checked in they all wished me a farewell and left to sort out the car to drive back to Tanzania.

My flight was cancelled and Air Zimbabwe put us up in a hotel for the night.
Unfortunately, there was a misunderstanding and I missed my plane the next morning so I called Lues and he almost had my neck for breakfast. He was not expecting me to miss my plane and he had no car by that stage and because he is a gentleman he called Tam and Sacha to come and get me.

Sacha and Tam looked after me for few days and I am glad I missed my plane well…!!
It was so good to go to one of the parks, Hakka Park, with Sacha where we did a lot of birding and rock climbing and I saw some more new birds and vegetation.
We did some shooting in the garden while Tam was making some food.
I thought I was going to be able to relax there but no! Sacha and Tam punished me big time, I had to work.

I think Zimbabwe is very good country and people are just so kind, nice to work with and they have very good education and some of them are quite happy to pass it over. I am lucky I have not met ones that don't like to teach.

My overall Bird count for Zimbabwe was 123 including 18 lifers.

It was an incredible experience for me and I really loved all of it. It surprised me and I learnt a lot during my travels and meetings with people from different African countries and different cultures and backgrounds. Let's pray for Zimbabwe as I believe it will come back strong.

In no particular order I would like to thank the following for this inspiring and motivating experience and I promise to use all my new knowledge for the company and myself.

Cordura Ltd.
Charlie Bailey,
Sean Lues,
George Crossland,
Kim Lues,
Dimitra,
Sacha,
Tam,
Mr. and Mrs. Lues.
Mr and Mrs Simpson.
Spike and Rita,
Imire Family and all that I cant remember.